Financial Resources and Planning
Guide to cat ownership & costs
While everyone is excited to adopt a new pet, we’ve found that there are some prospective pet owners that may have no idea what kind of costs to expect. There are many financial factors to getting a cat and this guide helps outline what to expect to ensure it is affordable before committing. The piece covers everything from preparing the house, to expected medical costs, registering your cat and even some unexpected costs to be prepared for just in case.
Learn More HERE!
Keepyourpet.com
This is a comprehensive website providing solutions to the common reasons people surrender their pets. It includes subjects like Medical, Behavioral, Family Dynamics, Senior Support and Vet Costs.
Learn more HERE!
Additional Information
Use your own resources to place your cat if you must give it up. After asking your immediate circle of friends, family, and co-workers, reach a broader audience by using social networking like Facebook, Twitter, Instagram where your friends and their friends and their friends have contacts. Someone may be looking to adopt. Together we can help many animals who need us. Please encourage your friends, co-workers, family and others to SPAY AND NEUTER THEIR PETS. Remind them how important it is to keep current ID on pets at all times in case they escape or are faced with a natural disaster like fire or flood. AND before getting a pet consider how long that pet will live. You are adopting them for better or worse, for richer or poorer. Your commitment to them should be for THEIR LIFETIME.
Health and Wellbeing
Our Preferred Vet
Dr.Dave Petrunich at VCA Bradshaw Animal Hospital is located at 9609 Bradshaw Rd., Elk Grove, CA 95624. Clinic contact number is (916) 685-2494.
Community Spay Neuter Clinic (CSNC)
The team at Community Spay Neuter Clinic is made up of highly trained, experienced animal health professionals who are compassionate about our mission. Every animal is treated with love as if it were our own. We believe the human-animal bond is precious and worth every effort to support it.
Learn more HERE!
Fiv and Felv information
FIV Information
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) is the cat version of AIDS. Unlike human AIDS there is no medication or cocktail that can slow the stages. Although the virus is slow-acting, a cat’s immune system is severely weakened once the disease takes hold. This makes the cat susceptible to various secondary infections. Infected cats who receive supportive medical care and are kept in a stress-free, indoor environment can live relatively comfortable lives for months to years before the disease reaches its chronic stages.
How Is FIV Transmitted?
FIV is mainly passed from cat to cat through deep bite wounds, the kind that usually occur outdoors during aggressive fights and territorial disputes—the perfect reason to keep your cat inside.
Which Cats Are Most Prone to FIV?
Although any feline is susceptible, free-roaming, outdoor intact male cats who fight most frequently contract the disease. Cats who live indoors are the least likely to be infected.
Can a Person Catch FIV from a Cat?
No. FIV cannot be transmitted from cat to human, only from cat to cat.
How Is FIV Treated?
Unfortunately, there is no specific antiviral treatment for FIV. Cats can carry the virus for a long time before symptoms appear. Therefore, treatment focuses mainly on extending the asymptomatic period or, if symptoms have set in, on easing the secondary effects of the virus. Your veterinarian may prescribe some of the following treatments:
Medication for secondary infections
Healthy, palatable diet to encourage good nutrition
Fluid and electrolyte replacement therapy
Anti-inflammatory drugs
Immune-enhancing drugs
Parasite control
How Do I Care for My FIV-Infected Cat?
Keep your cat indoors. This will protect him from contact with disease-causing agents to which he may be susceptible. By bringing your cat indoors, you’re also protecting the uninfected cats in your community.
Watch for changes—even seemingly minor—in your cat’s health and behavior. Immediately report any health concerns to your vet.
Bring your cat to your vet at least twice per year for a wellness checkup, blood count and urine analysis.
Feed your cat a nutritionally balanced food—no raw food diets, please, as bacteria and parasites in uncooked meat and eggs can be dangerous to immunocompromised pets.
Be sure your cat is spayed or neutered.
A cat that contracts FIV will usually still have a strong immune system after infection. With love and good care, FIV+ cats can live normal lifespans. These days it's not unusual to find FIV+ cats reaching 15 years or more. FIV is NOT a death sentence. Please don’t be spooked by the myths and false information.
If you still have questions about FIV, please feel free to check out the following links:
Cornell University
ASPCA
CatChat.org
Pet WebMD
FELV INFORMATION
FELV is Feline Leukemia. This information was provided by a veterinarian who translated various articles for one of our volunteers from the internet. Many of the articles are written in medical terminology and can be hard to understand. We have heard many stories from rescuers who indicated that kittens can become negative after a few months. This information seemed to contradict what many articles state. The following is our volunteer's understanding of the disease, we are thankful she has compiled this information to share!
The test for FELV is accurate in that a positive test result is 97% accurate that the cat has FELV; but, the cat can have FELV even if the results are negative. This would require a second, more expensive test to totally rule out the disease. Your vet can help you determine if this test is necessary. When born to a positive FELV mom, the kittens will be positive, and the disease will not go away. It can appear as if it has gone away because after four to 16 months, the virus will leave the blood stream and become cellular where it will reside in the bone marrow. This is why false negative results can appear. The other blood test can detect the disease at the cellular level.
The kitten or cat still has the ability to transmit the disease to an unvaccinated cat; although, with healthy cats, this can take up to two years of grooming, sharing food and water dishes and playing around together. The vaccine to protect your other cats is 99% effective four weeks after vaccination. If you have an immune compromised cat that doesn’t have the disease and hasn’t been vaccinated before, you should not risk the contact. Talk to your veterinarian about the vaccine risks for your immune compromised cat.
At some point when the FELV positive cat experiences significant stress or has an immune compromising illness, the FELV disease will become active and your cat will die of the disease or complications. It is impossible to say if their life will be shortened as a result of the disease. You should also not assume that the veterinary costs will be more than with another cat; only that you know there will be higher vet costs at some point. However, this is true of any cats as they get older when you are attuned to their health needs. The disease should not prevent you from opening you home to an FELV positive cat unless you have an immune compromised cat or limited means to maintain vaccinations for your existing cat.
Thanks you for taking the time to learn more about this disease and LAPCATS should not be held liable for any information provided in this article.
If you still have questions about FeLV, please feel free to check out the following links:
Cornell University
WHAT IS FIP ?
FIP, Feline Infectious Peritonitis, is no longer considered a death sentence! For many years, an FIP diagnosis was devastating because there were no effective treatments available. Drugs were developed but not FDA approved so in order to get them, it was “black market” and extremely expensive. Thankfully, veterinary medicine has changed dramatically, and today many cats with FIP can be successfully treated and go on to live healthy, normal lives.
Unfortunately some veterinarians are still relying on outdated information and may tell families that FIP is untreatable and fatal. Current treatment options have changed the outlook for this disease tremendously, and pet owners deserve access to veterinarians who stay informed about modern FIP treatment protocols and research.
At LapCats, we believe education saves lives. If your cat is diagnosed with FIP, we strongly encourage you to seek a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about current FIP treatments and willing to discuss all available options. As of 5/2026, LapCats has successfully treated 27 cats for FIP and ALL have survived. The drugs are a miracle. You can join Fip Warriors 5.0 on Facebook and get more information HERE.
UC Davis
Found a Cat or Kitten?
Please DO NOT try to give the animal away for free and
DO NOT place it with someone without spaying or neutering it first.
Do NOT give the animal away for free!
If you give an animal away for free, you are putting it in danger of being targeted by Bunchers. Always charge an adoption fee to cover what you paid to spay/neuter/vaccinate etc the cat.
The Sacramento Animal Shelter has great tips for helping out if you've lost a pet or have found a stray animal in the Sacramento area.
Learn more HERE!
Additional Resources
Oakland Animal Services has a great guide you can find HERE.
The Kitten Lady also has some great advice HERE.
The Dodo has another wonderful resource HERE.
Feral and Community Cats
What is a feral cat?
Although a cat in your yard could be a neighbor’s cat or a stray, it might very well be a feral cat. What is a feral cat and how is it different from a stray cat? Feral cats typically avoid people and can’t be touched. These cats usually live outdoors in groups known as colonies. While stray cats have had human contact at some point, they have become displaced and may also become feral.
A community cat on the other hand is a cat who has been abandoned but has not necessarily turned feral yet. They are roaming our neighborhoods fending for themselves or being fed by neighbors and may or may not be touchable. They really are the responsibility of the community to look out for them after humans have walked away from their responsibility of adopting a cat for life and not just when it is convenient.
Traditionally, the method of feral cat control has been to trap and euthanize the cats. There is a common misconception that once these cats are trapped and removed from a neighborhood, the cat problem will go away. The reality is that trapping and removing cats won’t resolve the cat problem. This method has proven ineffective because the food source (dumpsters, garbage, rodents, etc.) usually remains. As a result, other cats eventually find their way into your neighborhood and will quickly repopulate the area.
Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) benefits the cats and the community. Cats are spayed or neutered, vaccinated, and eartipped (the universal symbol of a neutered and vaccinated cat), and then returned to their outdoor home. The colony’s population stabilizes—no more kittens! Trap-Neuter-Return improves their lives and improves their relations with the community—the behaviors and stresses associated with mating stop. Trap-Neuter-Return is the humane, effective approach for feral cats.
The links below will give you more information about feral and community cats and how to help them:
National advocacy dedicated to the protection and humane treatment of cats: www.alleycatallies.org
Got Mice? Adopt a Barn Cat! www.animalcare.saccounty.net
Find your Missing Pet
Lost my doggie.com
Learn how to send an animal alert for your lost pet at lostmydoggie.com.
Additional tips to find your pet
Make a LOST DOG or CAT report with the shelter immediately.
Notify the microchip company if they are chipped.
Make a social media post with details or your flier and share across as many platforms as you can. PAWBOOST, RING, NEXTDOOR. Offer a REWARD but be aware of scammers.
Visit the shelters IN PERSON and OFTEN because they don't post all the pictures of the animals collected, as well as the hold times are only a few days.
Make BIG signs on brightly color poster board you can get at the Dollar Store! Keep it simple and use the 555 Rule-A driver should be able to read your sign in 5 seconds, driving 55 miles an hour. Example: LOST DOG/CAT! REWARD, a GOOD picture and your phone numbers. Post the flyers around your area-at least a mile radius of where your pet went missing.
Talk to the neighbors, especially kids playing outside and tell them to contact you with any sightings at all.
Check open/cracked garages, ask neighbors to look in their backyard sheds. Cats will go into hiding not only if they’re frightened but also if it’s hot or cold, They will seek shelter in quiet, out of the way places and could easily get stuck somewhere.
Walk the area with a can of cat food and a treat container, Bang a spoon on the can and shake the treats. It’s good to go at dusk since they are nocturnal and could be listening for you.
Sign up for https://nextdoor.com/ and it contacts all your neighbors surrounding your home.
You should also place a blanket, stuffed toy or other item on your porch or near your home so your dog/cat can smell it and find its way home.
Tell the mailman, UPS, and FedEx drivers! They see a LOT!
Most importantly, DON’T LOSE HOPE!
Products We Love
Cat fencing and Catios
If your cat is an indoor/outdoor cat the best way to keep him safe and healthy is to enclose his yard with cat fencing.
We recommend Catio Spaces use promo code 'LapCats' at check out to help benefit Lapcats!
These other resources can also help you find the best solution for your outdoor space:
Cat Fence In
Purr...fect Fence
Critterfence
Easy PETFENCE Kitty Corral Cat Fence
Litter Related Items
Dr. Elsey's Precious Clumping Cat Litter
The Litter Lifter
Cat Toys and Accessories
Cat Dancer Interactive Toy
The Kitty Cot
Food and Water
Ask LapCats
YOUR SUBMITTED QUESTIONS AND OUR SUGGESTIONS TO RESOLVE
Question: Our new kitten has just been spayed and she has a little bit of bruising on her stomach. What should we do?
Suggestion: If there is bruising around the surgery site, you should probably take her into your vet just to make sure it's not infected. If you adopted from the shelter or from LapCats, you were given a free visit to the vet which you can use. If you don't have a vet, please look at the list of vets on the back of the vet voucher that was given to you in your adoption packet.
Question: Our two cats were fine until we moved to a smaller space. Since being in the new space ZenBoy has been blocking Sugar from the food bowls, hissing & hitting at her and has gained quite a bit of weight. Sugar has begun hiding throughout the day and night under the dresser, not eating, only drinking water once in a while. What can we do?
Suggestion: Feeding the cats separately is the answer to keeping Zen Boy away from Sugar's food so she can eat in peace. If he wants to be with her during the day and you're keeping them separated that tells me he likes her unless he's trying to attack her. Obviously since this behavior has not always been a problem you've had him almost 8 months, something is bothering him or he just needs to be separated at feeding times.
Question: I have a kitten that decided to sneak out of our house. When he came home he was mangled by an animal. I took him to a vet and it turns out that his femur is completely fractured at the knee joint.The vet says the only option is surgery due to the location of the break... I can't afford surgery. Are there options to help me with the cost?
Suggestion: There are grants to help in situations like this. We have a link to Financial Aid on our website to guide you to them. I know Red Rover-United Animal Nations is a great one. There are also some ways to gather donations and we will try to put the word out to see who can help.
Question: My cat just started urinating just outside of her litter box on a towel we keep on the floor in front of her box to catch any cat litter on her paws as she steps out of her box. That towel has been there ever since we brought her home. This is extremely unusual behavior, for her. She has never done this before. In fact, I have never had a cat that did this. She did continue to urinate and poop in her box as well throughout the day and, today, she has not urinated outside her box at all. We did not put a towel back in its place. But we do have a store bought "catch mat" designed for litter tracking. Have you ever heard of a cat doing this or do you have any idea about what may cause her to do this?
Suggestion: The litter box issue is not uncommon. If you know she doesn't have a urinary tract infection, the next step is to try and figure out the behavior. We use a litter developed by a vet (Dr. Elsey) that is low dust and is called Precious Cat. He also makes a litter called Cat Attract which is specifically for cats with litter box issues. You might want to look into getting some of that if she continues to urinate inappropriately. We have a great little booklet at the adoption center that has some trouble shooting guidelines in it for litter problems as well. Feel free to stop by and grab one. We have them outside the center by the calendar and also inside the meet and greet. There are also coupons inside for Dr. Elsey's products. A few suggestions other than trying a litter additive (cat attract additive) are to add a second box (I assume you only have 1)? The general rule for cat boxes is to have a box for every cat in the house PLUS ONE. So if you have 1 cat, that means 2 boxes. If you have 4 cats, that means 5 boxes. Sometimes just that small adjustment will make a difference. Also if you have a 2 story house, you should offer a box on each floor. Since you know she's peeing on the towel and isn't doing it when the towel is gone, simply don't put the towel back down. That might be the answer and all the other stuff is mute. Sometimes the feeling of certain fabrics or textures are attractive to the cat and a soft, moveable item that she can "dig" like a towel directly outside the box might be a mixed message for her to be marking it due to the proximity of the towel to the litter box. Sounds weird I know, but they are so fastidious about things-especially with litter.
Question: I have a friend with two cats that need fostering. She is in a skilled nursing facility, is getting better, and hopes to be home soon - but in the meantime, needs someone to take in her cats. What can you suggest?
Suggestion: Can you or your kids go to her house to take care of the cats in their own environment? That is the best option for them. Maybe a volunteer from one of the shelters or church group could help her.
Question: I was open to having a new pet and a cat ended up on my front porch. She seemed like a nice cat and so I started to feed it. I was in the process of making friends with her and she went into heat before I could get her over to her spay appointment. When the appointment date arrived, she was already showing and I did not have the heart to abort her kittens. Now I have a very pregnant cat and really need some advice!
Suggestion: It is imperative you take this cat in right now to the county shelter and have her spayed. No appointment necessary. She is a community cat and the surgery will be free. Please do not let her have kittens. You have the power right now to stop the potential for possibly 10 more lives to be born with no homes in site.You do not have the means to take care of a semi-feral mom and all her babies for 8 weeks until they are big enough to be weaned and spayed and neutered. Trust me, it's a lot of work and very expensive. There are also no guarantees there will be GOOD lifelong homes for them. We have too many moms and babies in our shelters waiting for homes unsuccessfully.
Question: I found a litter of kittens, the mom got spooked and ran away. Now what do I do?
Suggestion: It is important to know that you should not take the babies away from the mom. Even though she got spooked she will be back for them. She and the babies should be trapped and taken to the shelter. The shelters are over there are no guarantees they will not be euthanized but you should not allow them stay in the yard and continue reproducing especially if no one is caring for them and fixing them as they are growing.
Question: My husband and I are looking for a forever home for our 4 ½ year-old Maine Coon male cat. He is neutered and is a sweet loving companion. We have a total of four cats and this cat has become territorial and has been spraying some of our furniture. We have taken him to the vet and have tried working with pet rescues but all has been to no avail. He had a urinary tract infection about a year ago and needs to be on a special diet – only urinary health food. I have contacted all of the local rescues and no one is accepting animals at this time. He has had this problem (off and on) for several years. He recently had a bladder infection and that triggered an new bout of spraying. We have two large litter boxes that are in a room of their own. The cats are comfortable with them and we have not had problems with them using the litter. Nothing has changed in over four years. He has gone outdoors, but has always been supervised. We have taken him to the doctor and she informed us that it was a mental not physical problem.
Suggestion: I have a cat that does this on occasion and it's because he wants to go outside. I had to make a choice either let him go out at his will or allow him to spray. Obviously I chose the first option.
If you have four cats you should have more than two litter boxes. Have you tried Cat Attract Litter? Anti-anxiety meds? A calming collar? Even though the litter boxes and litter have remained the same for four years, there have been cases where adverse behaviors start rearing their ugly heads as a cat ages.
Yes it sounds behavioral and my advice to you is to try installing cat fencing or a cat enclosure to keep him happy. We have options for the fencing and catios is on our website under the "resources" link. You can do it very inexpensively or very elaborately. This will allow him access to the outdoors and keep him safe in your yard. If he has to stay outside exclusively in order to curb the behavior, it is better than being rehomed into a situation that may not be forever.
Question: I have a 5 year female that has taken to wetting on our bed and floor. We do have multiple cat's and are only have problems with her. I do have two cat boxes and make sure they are changed regularly. Is this a habit that can be broke or do I need to look into surrendering her. (Yes I have taken her to the vet and there was nothing wrong. We have 3 cats. We are using Johnny Cat and change every 2 - 3 days in each box. We only have a 1 story house. One litter box is covered and one is not.
There are no new humans or pets. She is declawed. I am not sure if there is something that is upsetting her or not.)
Suggestion: Is the litter scented? Clumping? Declawed cats can sometimes have an aversion to certain litter. Check out Dr. Elseys Precious Cat litter. They have Cat Attract and also a litter for declawed cats. He is a vet and has developed litter for cats because one of the #1 reasons cats are surrendered to shelters is because of litter box issues. You can visit their website for more info as well. www.preciouscat.com/litter-box-solutions/. Copy and paste this link.
I would also suggest another litter box. Make sure it is big enough for the cats to stand up in, move around in, dig deep in the litter. Personally, I use Rubbermaid storage containers. I put a small stool next to it so they can get in and out easily. The box "rule" is 1 box per cat+1 which means you should technically have 4 boxes.
How long have you had her? Are you sure the other cats aren't blocking her from access to the boxes?
Pick up bathroom rugs that have a rubber backing. Some cats like to pee on those.
Maybe you should keep the door closed to your bed if that's where she's peeing.
Don't give up on her.
Question: I have a cat, a former stray who used to just hang out in our yard, that refuses to use the litterbox. He wants to use my carpet. Always. He has free access to the outside because we have a little dog and a doggie door. But still he wants to use our carpet. He is estimated to be about 12-13 years old. He checked out in good health at the vet. We feed him healthy food. I have tried cleaning the box all the time. I've tried a second box. I've tried changing box location. I've tried removing one side of the box so he didn't have to step over. We do have a second cat who uses the litter box. I can't give each their own because the second cat uses both. I've cleaned all the places he goes instead extensively... any suggestions? I like the cat. The cat loves the dog. He is so old I hate to just leave him outside.
Suggestion: If there are certain areas on the carpet he favors, put a litter box on top of that area. Use Cat Attract litter (unscented of course). There are various types of Precious Cat/Cat Attract litter and you could try all different kinds. Perhaps he has an aversion to the type of litter you are using in the boxes. Try adding another litter box and make sure they are both uncovered, covered, and large enough to move around in and stand up in. Use enough litter to allow him to dig deep-in other words, don't fill the litter box with shallow litter. Cats like to dig to China.
If he has been checked by a vet and urinary track infection, hyperthyroidism, and diabetes have been ruled out, this is behavioral and I would definitely try the ideas mentioned above with multiple litter boxes. One last thing to try is using a Rubbermaid container. I use those exclusively instead of litter boxes and I put a step stool next to them for my older cats so they don't have trouble getting in. The nice thing about a Rubbermaid container is they are tall and wide and cats really like using them. I would suggest adding that to the choices of boxes.